Our original plan, when Robyn came aboard, was to offload our big spinnaker into Robyn’s van to make more space. As we were now in the marina that would have entailed carrying the sail, in the rain, to the ferry and some hanging around at the mainland end while Robyn parked her van and got a lift back to the harbour. A much better solution was found when the marina agreed to store the spinnaker for a week until we returned.
Going ashore to meet Robyn also allowed us to pay another visit to Aldi to pick up the beers that we couldn’t carry on our previous shopping expedition. As usual it was raining but not as heavily as last time. Robyn arrived with a few minutes to spare before the ferry and was soon on board with gear and shopping stowed away.
Robyn wanted to get to the Outer Hebrides but the unsettled, mainly strong, westerly winds made that not possible. The Monday forecast was NW 4 to 5, occasionally 6. Even so we decided to aim for Loch Sunart at the northern end of the Sound of Mull with fall back plans for Tobermory or Loch Aline, reasoning that although it would be windy the sea would be relatively moderate. We were soon well reefed with 2 in the main and 2 in the genoa.
We had left the spray hood up expecting rain and were glad we did as we were getting a lot of spray over the deck. Although we were enjoying the sail it was quite “hardcore”.
We soon agreed that Loch Sunart or Tobermory were too much and stopped off in Loch Aline, anchoring where we had stopped a few days ago, well sheltered and with seals for entertainment.
The next day was much better, still breezy and bright but nowhere near as strong. We were still beating down the Sound of Mull but with a full genoa and 1 reef in the mainsail. A good combination and an enjoyable sail, ending up in Loch Drumbuie, a virtually landlocked loch on the south side of Loch Sunart surrounded by hills.
We were one of 4 yachts in there, each occupying an anchorage on the corners of the loch. We got a good night’s rest.
Wednesday’s plan was to head to Coll with the hope that from there, if there was a quiet spell in the weather, we could do a temporary stop off at Staffa. The forecast was good with a westerly wind making the course to Arinagour a one sided beat. Leaving Loch Drumbuie there wasn’t much wind and it was foggy.
We motored out of Loch Sunart and carried on motoring along the north of Mull until we could sail on starboard tack and clear all the headlands. With 12 to 15 knots and full sail it turned into a good sail with the visibility improving. After an hour the wind increased to 18 knots so we dropped a reef in the main. We had to make a short tack on to port to make Arinagour and by early afternoon we were anchored in the harbour.
A quick recce ashore for Debbie and David while Robyn stayed on board allowed us to fill the water jerry cans and find the village shops, two of them, neither of which were particularly well stocked.
We also found the very smart community centre where we could get showers for a pound (although there was only one shower in the gents and one in the ladies). Our final find was the Coll Hotel, recently extended and looking very smart. The food menu looked very good and we could shower for free if we ate there. Sorted! Back to the boat to fill the water cans again and take the recyclable rubbish ashore before getting smartened up and back ashore for showers and dinner. Although there was only one shower there was plenty of space and plenty of hot water and time for us all to shower before dinner (not together!). Luxury! Dinner was a big success.
The food was excellent and the setting, looking out over the harbour, very relaxing. I had the best lemon cheesecake I have ever eaten and the girls both had Affogato with a liqueur. Definitely to be recommended. We were very mellow (and clean!) heading back to the boat.
The weather next day was still too much for Staffa so we aimed for Iona, a reach for a change, starting off with one reef in the main and full genoa and eventually shaking out the mainsail reef. Good sailing and visibility but still chilly. After 4 hours sailing we came into the Sound of Iona intending to anchor in Bull Hole.
We could see the bottom and attempted to drop on sand clear of weed but each time the anchor dragged and picked up masses of kelp.
After 4 goes we gave up and headed for Tinkers Hole, a small anchorage in amongst rocks at the south end of Iona Sound. The anchorage, and the way in, were very dramatic and the rocks either side of the anchorage made it very sheltered.
There was one boat already in there but plenty of space for us to anchor ahead of her. The anchor held first time! Another two boats eventually came in and it was full.
We had another two nights before Robyn had to be back in Oban to pick up her van and head to Ullapool to run a week’s sailing course. With the weather still a mixed bag, we couldn’t be too far away so we opted to complete the circumnavigation of Mull by going into Loch Spelve. We had been in there before, in the SW corner, but this time we opted for the north end of the loch. The passage was wet (rain) and misty but we did manage to get the spinnaker up for a while.
The rain continued into the evening so we ran a Connect 4 championship. Debbie ended up the champion.
On Saturday morning summer showed its face again. Blue sky and dry! We left mid morning to be on the ebb through the entrance narrows then had a gentle 2 hour sail across to Puilladobhrain to show Robyn this splendid little anchorage.
We were the only boat in there when we arrived. Going ashore in the warm sunshine we walked across to Clachan Bridge then to the shop in Balvicar for bread and milk, rewarding ourselves with an ice cream for our efforts. On the way back further reward was required, a beer at the pub by the bridge.
Very pleasant to sit outside enjoying the sun.
Back to the anchorage loads more boats had arrived and the tide had nearly reached the dinghy. The spinnaker which we had left along the deck to dry after yesterday’s soaking was able to be put away.
Sunday dawned bright and sunny with the wind in the north. As Robyn didn’t need to be away until late afternoon we decided to beat, against the tide, up to the north channel into Oban to make the most of the ideal sailing weather.
Back in Oban marina we caught the 1600 ferry for Robyn to collect her van and help us with a shop visit before departing northwards to Ullapool . It was nice to have her with us, we don’t get to see her that often these days as she is so busy. Good to have someone to do most of the steering as well!
So, phase 2 of our journey over, we started to prepare for phase 3. Going home!
Sailing Lacerta 